First Look: Julia’s 1902, Opening Thursday, April 25th in Willoughby - Scene
After working together for years at Felice on Larchmere, Paul Neundorfer and José Coronado were searching for their next restaurant opportunity. They stumbled upon it by accident.
“We looked at a church in Willoughby three separate times but decided that it just wasn’t going to work,” explains Neundorfer. “We went to go get a cup of coffee and we drove past this building.”
Despite there being no for sale sign out front, they found an old link for the property on the real estate website LoopNet. They returned to look at it the next morning and, in 2022, purchased the building.
It took two years, a visionary team of people, and very deep pockets to restore this former country estate to its present form. The 17,000-square-foot mansion was built between the years of 1898 and 1902 for Julia French Boyce. Architect Charles Schweinfurth, who designed many of the houses that comprised Cleveland’s "Millionaire's Row," constructed the Neo-Gothic building with sandstone cut from Amherst quarries.
Over the years, the estate was home to the Andrews School for Girls, an assisted living facility, and other uses before sitting vacant for years. It had been slated for demolition in decades past.
Today, the main house and nearby carriage house are just about ready for their next chapter. Now called Willoughby House, the property consists of a 10-room inn and full-service bar and restaurant called Julia’s 1902 (37819 Euclid Ave., 216-440-0955). Owners Paul and Michael Neundorfer worked with architects, designers and construction firms to bring the 125-year-old structure back to its former majesty. Visitors will observe original oak wood flooring, coffered ceilings, pocket doors, leaded-glass windows, stained-glass door panels and richly tiled fireplace surrounds.
“It had a long way to go to get to this point,” Paul says matter-of-factly.
The upscale casual restaurant will seat approximately 140 guests in separate and unique rooms, including a finished back porch. In spring, a multilevel terrace will add another dimension to the property.
The rooms were “intentionally refurnished” with period-appropriate pieces, including some original furnishings donated by family members. Designer Troy Valentik blends antique fixtures with modern finishes to create a classic, elegant and rich interior. Gems like a turn-of-the-century Murano chandelier – picked up at a Paris flea market – hangs in a restroom. Those who have been to the Hermit Club in Cleveland will likely spot familiar-looking figurines – called grotesques – hanging above the bar.
Coronado, who was chef at Felice for nearly seven years, will import his characteristic flair for fusing Latin American, Asian and American flavors into approachable, appealing dishes.
“But this time I’m going to go more upscale,” he says.
He’ll do that by upping the ingredients, preparations and presentations. To start, there will be harissa-roasted carrots, tempura-fried cauliflower, hamachi aguachile, and short rib croquettes. Coronado is particularly fond of the duck confit mole, whole butterflied bronzini, and a big bowl of pozole capped with seared halibut. There is also a smoked flatiron steak with chimichurri, rigatoni with vodka marinara, and a pork belly-topped burger. A bar menu will be available both before and after dinner service.
One thing diners will not find at Julia’s 1902 is a gratuity line on checks. Instead, there will be a fixed service charge somewhere in the range of 18 to 20 percent.
“We will be running this as a no-tipping establishment,” says Michael. “Our servers are interested in earning a living wage. They earn a salary with time off and paid health care. We think the training and level of hospitality and the lack of turnover this creates is going to offset some of the fixed costs.”
Tips will not be accepted by any employee, from valet parker to bartender, they stress.
Julia's 1902 will be open for dinner Tuesday through Saturday.