Julia’s 1902 review: Bathed in history, Willoughby restaurant wows
Published by: The News-Herald
By Mark Meszoros
Original article found here
There are wonderful meals, and then there’s the dinner I experienced a few weeks ago at Julia’s 1902 in Willoughby.
Honestly, “a few weeks ago” is a bit of a stretch, as my friend Cassandra and I enjoyed a dinner there to celebrate her birthday in the fall. (Excuses as to why I’m getting to this review only now? A few — more pressing matters, holidays, vacation days, etc. — but I certainly didn’t plan to take this long to write about a dining experience I so thoroughly adored.)
In April 2024, brothers Michael and Paul Neundorfer and another partner, Executive Chef Jose Coronado, opened the fine-dining restaurant, along with an inn, Willoughby House, in the former Van Gorder Manor, a century-old structure on Euclid Avenue just south of the city’s historic downtown.
On this chilly and dark November evening, we were happy to escape into the first-floor restaurant’s history-tinged and ornate warmth, a hostess seating us at a table in the corner of one of its several dining rooms a little before our 7:15 p.m. reservation. (Really, my only complaint on this night — and Cassandra assured me that I wasn’t crazy — was the table not being the best height for our chairs, leading to us hunching over our food and drink throughout what otherwise was an entirely pleasurable and leisurely meal.)
Julia’s is a non-tipping establishment, with a 20 percent gratuity built into every bill. (Ours, as I assume is customary, was delivered in a well-worn book, which I liked.)
One wonders if that may lead to under-inspired servers, but ours was quite good — answering questions and offering recommendations throughout the night. He also asked whose birthday it was, as I had noted we were celebrating one when I’d made the online reservation, and he wished Cassandra a happy one.
A wine lover would have tough decisions, given the extensive list at Julia’s 1902, but we were both in the market for selections from the Specialty Cocktails page of the menu. After metaphorically sipping on some recommendations based on our respective tastes, I landed, predictably, on the Campfire Old Fashioned ($16), a tasty twist on the classic with bourbon, cocoa bitters and simple syrup — playfully presented with two toasted marshmallows laid across the rim of the glass.
Cassandra, meanwhile, treasured the Blood & Sand ($17), a concoction featuring Scotch, sweet vermouth and Heering cherry liqueur.
Later, she and I enjoyed sipping, respectively, on a Black Manhattan ($15) and a Crimson Carriage ($16). All are excellent drinks.
As for the food, Julia’s employs a seasonal menu, but, I’m happy to report everything we ordered from the fall menu has remained to its winter successor.
You could spend serious time selecting two appetizers from the many scrumptious-sounding options, but we quickly settled on the Grilled Spanish Octopus ($19), served with roasted fingerling potatoes, black olive aioli, chimichurri and lemon brûlée, and the Short Rib Croquettes ($18), with Japanese panko, potato, black truffle aioli, peach jam and sorrel.
I rarely pass on octopus when I see it on a menu, even though it can be a little tough; this was, perhaps, the most tender I’ve had, and the combination of flavors in this starter really sang.